A third of the Oregon coast has been warned to stay off beaches due to 26-foot waves

Meteorologists are warning beachgoers in Oregon that a high surf advisory is in effect for more than a third of the state’s beaches.

A large swell in the Pacific Ocean has created large, breaking waves between 23 and 26 feet, which could create “hazardous conditions along and within the surf zone,” according to the National Weather Service (NWS).

NWS meteorologist Mike Petrucelli told it Newsweek that the waves are larger than the typical wave height, and that people should be aware of their surroundings. The advisory was issued by the Medford office and will remain in effect until early Friday morning.

The advice is available off the south-central coast of Oregon, including off Coos, Curry and Douglas counties. An NWS map shows the advisory area extends about 130 miles from south of Brookings to north of Reedsport, more than a third of the state’s 220 miles of coastline.

“Large breaking waves may swamp beaches and low-lying coastlines,” the consultancy said. “Beach erosion is possible and exposed infrastructure could be damaged.”

“Stay away from the surf zone and jetties,” the advisory added. “Area beaches may become hazardous due to hazardous surf conditions.”

Petrucelli said the waves are created when the wind at sea creates a swell.

“So you have a strong storm over the Pacific Ocean, and it generates a wind wave, and eventually over time that wave gets further away from the storm and becomes what we call a swell,” he said.

When approaching the beach, large waves can arrive much higher on the beach than expected. High surf advisories are more common in winter, when waves are typically higher, Petrucelli said.

“When you’re at the beach, you want to be aware of your surroundings,” he said. “Not every wave causes the water to rise, but sometimes that can happen.”

Random large waves can catch people off guard, he warned. Waves can also carry driftwood, logs or other debris, which can also be dangerous.

A hazardous seas warning is also in effect for Oregon’s coastal waters, with the advisory stating that “strong winds and very steep, hazardous seas could capsize or damage vessels.”

It added: “Poor visibility is possible. Crossing a bar can also become dangerous,” the warning said. “Mariners should consider altering their plans to avoid high winds and very steep seas. Stay in port, seek safe harbor, alter course and/or secure the vessel for severe conditions.”

Aside from coastal hazards, so are other parts of Oregon under a winter storm warning and winter weather advisories as a series of storm-embedded systems move through the Pacific Northwest, There is a risk of up to 3 meters of snow in the upper Cascades.

Some meteorologists urged people to keep a winter emergency kit easily accessible in their car, with items like a flashlight, batteries, blankets, a shovel, water, non-perishable food items and snow chains.