Zurich on a plate with chef Suvir Saran

(NOTE: This article was originally published in the October 2024 issue of India Today Spice)

Daybreak divides the elements and saturates the air with a dull golden smudge that slowly turns to blush, separating it from the inky waters of Lake Zurich, which warm to a solemn gray. As the tranquil lake gradually comes to life, ducks circle Andi Braschler’s fishing boat, loudly claiming their share of his morning catch. It’s four in the morning and Braschler, a passionate fisherman no stranger to this type of inshore fishing, is hard at work, as he has been for more than 30 years: the sixth generation in his family’s fishing business. But it’s not just his passion turned profession that drew us to this fishing expedition in freezing temperatures. It is to experience first-hand the links in the chain that maintain the sensitivity of the Zurich farm and nourish its seasonal, regional and sustainable food philosophy.

Braschler sells his fish directly from his shop in the town of Hurden, not only to local residents, but also to restaurants in the region such as PUR. Starved from our foraging adventures on the lake, grab lunch at PUR, just a five-minute walk from Braschler’s shop. And no prizes for guessing what the menu has to offer: the freshest, most flavorful ceviche made from our early morning catch.

PUR HURDEN

“PUR” enjoys luxury on the edge of Lake Zurich, with the most breathtaking views of the Swiss Alps, and food made from fresh produce, sourced locally, mostly within a radius of 8 km. This authentic tasting experience brings the best of farm-to-table to your lakeside table. The restaurant, led by the gracious, talented chef duo Adrian B¼hrer and Tarik Lange, combines the best of traditional cuisine and innovative ideas. Enjoying the sun-drenched, all-wooden, almost 200-year-old house, which has been converted into a charming chalet restaurant, you can feel and taste the harmony with nature. As for food, they don’t offer an exhaustive menu, because waste is an abomination. Instead, the menu depends on the season and its products. The wines, both red and white, served with the meals were purchased from the winery next door, K¼mins Vineyard, the next port of call on our gastronomic romp.

Chef Suvir’s recommendation, PUR, was all about a lack of ingredients; if less is more, less was the most at PUR. The Cheesecake Ice Cream was the last bite, but it showed how something as basic as ice cream can be a work of art; this is magic and purity at its best. Another standout dish was the ceviche made from the fish caught that morning, with just some citrus, salt and pepper, fresh herbs and microgreens. It was a work of art and a dance of pure flavors on your palate – the consumption of food that brought you closest to the planet in the cleanest way possible.

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Costs: CHF 40-80 per person (Rs 3,880-7,760)

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SALTZ, THE DOLDER GRAND

For an all-day restaurant, Saltz is sensational. It is led by two Michelin star chef Heiko Nieder, executive chef of The Dolder Grand, who has transformed the hotel into a gastronomic destination. The decor emphasizes clean lines, lots of natural light and cleverly placed design elements, peppered with the right amount of theatricality. The cuisine is unconventional, honest and delicious. Signature dishes, especially the Black Cod, served with eggplant and miso, are simple and exquisite. The sweet, umami, velvety miso coddles the cod in a flaky, fresh bundle of flavor. The breakfast buffet is nothing short of grand: the choices range from healthy to decadent, from simple to extensive; bread is traditional and gloats about gluten; the juice shots combine the best superfoods and are still delicious. Fresh farm and seasonal produce adds flavor, while inventive interventions add nuance and texture.

Chef Suvir’s recommendation: Small bites, beautifully crafted with finesse and flavor, served at the right temperature and perfect texture provide satiety in every bite – many familiar, some exotic, but all infused with artistry and artisanal details, a signature of Chef Heiko Nieder.

www.thedolderrand.com/en/saltz-restaurant

Costs: CHF 100 to 180 per person (Rs 9,700-17,460)

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ZUNFTHAUS ZUR WAAG

One of the city’s most beautiful guildhalls (1315), this restaurant is steeped in history and known for its breathtaking Chagall windows. The elegant dining room on the first floor lets in light and offers beautiful views of the town square and church towers, while the food includes both Zurich classics and innovative new creations.

Chef Suvir’s recommendation: The Zurich-style veal and R¶sti had a lovely satiny mouthfeel. The R¶sti was hot, crispy and crackling on the outside and soft, steamy and pillowy on the inside: the perfect complement to the autumn air.

https://www.zunfthaus-zur-waag.ch/en

Cost: CHF 60-120 per person (Rs 5,820-11,640)

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BAUERNSCHÄNKE

Understated, small, cozy and completely wooden interiors create a homely atmosphere, the kind of place where you feel at home abroad. And yet it is perfect to enjoy the fantastic dishes served simply but friendly. Located in the middle of Zurich’s charming Old Town, the hassle-free Bauernschänke, led by celebrated chef Nenad Mlinarevic, focuses on deliciousness rather than pretty plates or pretentious portions. It’s a simple matrix of premium products and nutrition that goes to the right place. The roasted pork belly has made it into urban lore, but it was the Gruyère churros that melted my heart. Another food memory that made its way into the Hall of Fame was homemade bread.

Chef Suvir’s recommendation: The sea bass ceviche was delicious because it highlighted sea buckthorn, a superfood ingredient. And the savory churros were exactly the kind of food that makes you fall in love with a restaurant.

https://bauernschaenke.ch/en/

Costs: CHF 60-120 per person (Rs 5,820-11,640)

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IGNIV

Igniv is the kind of place you go when you want to show off your refined taste. Igniv, a fine-dine restaurant with a sharing concept, by renowned chef Andreas Caminada, located in the heart of the Niederdorf district, is gastronomically central for gourmets. The interior design, like the food, has been carefully thought out and planned with fastidious details. An abundance of fabrics and heavy curtains herald the history where theater and vaudeville shows once took place. The food mimics art on a plate and often looks too good to eat.

Chef Suvir’s recommendation: The pigeon breast was delicious; it was savory, moist and a departure from the safe and predictable, showing that the kitchen had a deft hand. The combination with the beets was great as their dark and powerful flavor effectively masked the playfulness of the pigeon.

https://igniv.com/english

Costs: CHF 100-180 (Rs 9,700-17,460)

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SYBARITIC PLEASURE

For languorous wine drinking and evenings given over to the flow of the soul, Zurich offers a host of exciting pubs.

KœMINS VINEYARD

This vineyard is beautiful and simply a reference to a Yashraj production. The vineyard is located on terraces on a hill, right in the middle of the rose city of Rapperswil. Of course, the K¼mins company has several vineyards located on Lake Zurich, and sells their wines to various restaurants in the region, but this is where you should go if you want to enjoy the most beautiful fresh, light, fruity wines that light up. the palate. The tasting room sits atop the vineyard hill (in the photo above) and offers 360 degree views of the lake and scenic Rapperswil, ablaze with autumn colors, but the sunset on the lake is a sight that will linger in your mind for a long time . views and the sips are gone.

www.zuerich.com/en/visit/restaurants/kumin-weinbau

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CLOUDS BAR & BISTRO

High above Zurich’s entertainment district, Zurich-West, this calls for a spicy high, where your head is swimming in the clouds and your feet are firmly on the ground. Zurich’s highest bar offers stunning 360 degree views of the city, all the way to the lake, and with some fantastic cocktails and snacks on call, this is a must-visit. The colors of the sun as it disappears over the city are a different conversation.

https://clouds.ch

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JULES VERNES PANORAMIC BAR

As the name suggests, it’s all about the view at this beautiful bar in the heart of the city, right next to Bahnhofstrasse. Hardly any other resto-bar can claim such a beautiful view over the rooftops of Zurich, all the way to the Alps. The beautiful panorama is complemented by delicious cocktails and first-class wines. Romantics can spend that extra hour watching the sun melt into the Alps.

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BAR AM WASSER

This is the chill zone; with drinks and service that are as unpretentious as the name. It transitions seamlessly from bar to restaurant and café depending on the time of day and the traveler’s whim. With around 400 bottles in the two-storey spirits gallery, Bacchus worshipers are spoiled for choice. It’s simple elegance at its best.

https://www.baramwasser.ch/

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SPECIAL EXPERIENCES

Spice’s culinary exploration of Zurich’s hip and trendy hotspots

JOHANNES BAKKER

Bread is literally Manna from heaven in Zurich, with artisan bread that masters the taste and palate. And this is the coolest bakery in town. At John Baker everything is homemade, with ingredients from sustainable and fair production from multiple locations. Give us today our daily bread…

https://johnbaker.ch/

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FOOD TOUR ZœRICH-WEST

A culinary adventure through the heart of trendy Zurich West, this district is Foodie Central and this walking tour gives foodies a glimpse into the most popular restaurants and pubs. Eat and drink like a local at this cultural hotspot.

(Every Friday in English)

Costs: CHF 85 per person (Rs 8,245)

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HOT CHOCOLATE

Switzerland and chocolate are like bread and cheese, a marriage made in culinary heaven. In Zurich, hot drinking chocolate is known as “Heisse Schoggi”. Imagine the autumnal feeling in the Alpine air and a steaming mug of decadent, chocolatey sludge to revive the body and warm the soul. You can get it on any street corner or cafe, but we recommend the liquid dream from master chocolatier Spr¼ngli with multiple locations around the city.

https://spruengli.ch

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FONDUE

In Zurich, enjoy not only fondue, but also the location: open-air restaurants, on a boat, in a tram, or go traditional in a cozy chalet.

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—Suvir Saran is the only executive chef on the Nutrition Advisory Council at Brigham & Women’s Hospital, where he teaches at Harvard Medical School. He is currently the culinary director of Neuma and True Palate Hospitality, which oversees twelve restaurants in India and around the world.

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